Istanbul Day 1 - 28th March 2013

First morning in hotel we were served a rather weird b/fast – borek, s/age in sauce, weird salad type things, cold meat, salami, cheese and soft cheese.  Dried figs, apricot and sultanas with yoghurt.  Some dodgy somewhat dry cakes. Watery cranberry? Squash or very strong orange squash, strong coffee.

We then headed to Sultanamhet Square but queues very long for Haghia Sofia and Blue Mosque is shut during preayer time.

We decided to Topkapi Palace, which was a up a big fuck off hill!  It was busy but moving queues.

The Gate 

Lovely Gardens

It was a massive complex with lots of rooms.  We bought a separate ticket for the Harem tour and went on that first.  This took us into the hidden world of the sultan’s wives and concubines.

Lots of courtyards and passages all decorated with beautiful Iznik tiles in green and blue Mosaics on walls.  Reminds us of Medersa Ben Youssef in Morocco.

Queen mother and sultans Apartments are of particular interest with huge gold canopies over where bed would have been, large ornate fire places and some intricate patterns painted on ceilings.

Treasury has some exquisite items in – sultan’s dagger with 3 huge 56 carat emeralds in the handle, 86 carat spoonmakers diamond and the necklaces with huge ruby in the centre flanked by two large emeralds.  Also mother of pearl insets on some of the royal thrones.

Eat at Konyali the on-site restaurant as the café is full.  I had stuffed chicken – pilaf rice, chicken thigh meat and Phil had the Turkish goulash – lamb, vegetables, rice, mash, (very small portion).  He was not impressed but mine was really lovely.  We then shared mixed dessert with various pieces of baklava.

We wandered back outside and there’s a large Iznik tiled building reminiscent of Vinmanek/Cha-am palace.  Upstairs there’s the summer room (circumcision room!) and a few other outbuildings of similar nature arranged around a nice fountain with a miniature of the complex in the centre.

We head back to hotel via the park at the side, and couldn't help noticing how there were lots of trees with no leaves on.

We rested for a while then back out for food – Phil grabed some meat borek (stuffed bread or pastry, bread in this case) and booked a table for later as all the restaurants we wanted to eat in last night were full.  So we headed out back to Pasazade restaurant which specialises in Ottoman cuisine.

Starters

I had Arap tava, Sauteed minced lamb & beef with green peppers and onion, served on humus

Phil had chard dolma rolls, Lamb and veal mince stuffed chard-leaf rolls with yogurt and tomato sauce

Mains

I had the Sultan's Chicken Rolls
Organic chicken leg stuffed with pistachio, spinach and goat cheese, with sautéd carrot and zucchini served with pilaf

Phil had Hünkâr Beğendi (Sultan's Favorite)
Beef entrecote stew with sun-dried apricots, apple, and almonds, seasoned with cardamom, fresh thyme, basil, and rosemary, served with smoked eggplant mash

Desserts

I had the baked rice pudding, mastic flavoured (cold) with ice cream

Phil had Semolina Halva with Roasted Pine Kernel and Sundried Fruits

All of it very tasty and very satisfying.  We loved the sound of some of the other dishes on the menu and after a bit of banter with the waiter, decided to book a table for Saturday night.